The Controversial Story Of Headquarter X Carhartt WIP: Why The 'Diablos Y Tecuanes' Collection Vanished
The Headquarter x Carhartt WIP collaboration, known as the "Diablos y Tecuanes" capsule collection, is one of the most talked-about and ultimately controversial limited-edition releases of the current season. Launched to celebrate contemporary Mexican culture, the partnership between the iconic American workwear brand's European division and the leading Mexico City concept store quickly sold out, but its legacy is now defined by a major cultural dispute rather than its design merit.
As of late 2025, the collection has been largely scrubbed from official social media and retail channels, a direct result of plagiarism accusations that highlight the delicate balance between cultural appreciation and cultural appropriation in modern streetwear. This in-depth look explores the collection's roots, the specific products, and the swift, dramatic fallout that followed its limited August release.
The Partners: Headquarter and Carhartt WIP
The "Diablos y Tecuanes" collection brought together two distinct entities from the world of contemporary fashion and streetwear, each with a strong, established identity.
Carhartt WIP: The Workwear Legacy
Carhartt Work In Progress (WIP) is the European arm of the century-old, Dearborn, Michigan-based workwear giant, Carhartt. While the main Carhartt brand focuses on rugged, functional clothing for manual labor, Carhartt WIP reinterprets these durable classics for a global streetwear and fashion audience. It is renowned for its collaborations that infuse its iconic silhouettes—like the Chore Coat and Active Jacket—with new artistic and cultural narratives.
Headquarter: Mexico City’s Concept Store Authority
Headquarter is not just a clothing retailer; it is a boutique-gallery established in Mexico City in 2004. Positioned as a leading concept store, Headquarter showcases a curated selection of recognized international fashion brands while also serving as a platform for cutting-edge design and local artistic dialogue. The store has cemented its reputation as a cultural hub in the heart of Mexico’s vibrant capital, making it a natural partner for a collection rooted in Mexican heritage.
The 'Diablos y Tecuanes' Capsule Collection
The core intention of the collaboration was to create a contemporary celebration of Mexican culture, specifically drawing inspiration from traditional folklore and dance. The name "Diablos y Tecuanes" refers to two significant figures in Mexican tradition, particularly associated with dances performed in certain regions.
Cultural Inspiration: Diablos and Tecuanes
The Tecuanes (meaning "jaguar" or "fierce one" in Nahuatl) are central to a traditional dance performed in parts of Mexico, notably in Puebla and Guerrero, often depicting a battle between a jaguar and a group of hunters. The Diablos (Devils) are also prominent figures in various Mexican folkloric dances, symbolizing the eternal struggle between good and evil, often characterized by elaborate, colorful masks and costumes. The collection's designs featured motifs, colors, and iconography inspired by the elaborate, traditional costumes (trajes tradicionales) worn by the dancers in these rituals.
Key Products and Design Elements
The capsule collection applied these striking cultural graphics to Carhartt WIP’s signature durable canvas and cotton fabrics. The most sought-after piece was the Headquarter x Carhartt WIP Michigan Coat, a classic Carhartt silhouette reimagined with the unique "Diablos y Tecuanes" artwork. Other items included:
- Heavy-duty canvas jackets (similar to the Active Jacket).
- Graphic T-shirts and sweatshirts featuring the Devil and Tecuanes motifs.
- Potentially accessories that integrated the vibrant, folkloric designs.
The Plagiarism Accusations and Swift Fallout
Despite the initial excitement and immediate sell-out success of the collection, the release was quickly overshadowed by a significant controversy. This incident serves as a crucial case study in the complexities of cultural appropriation and intellectual property in the fashion industry.
The Core of the Dispute
The controversy centered on allegations of plagiarism and unauthorized use of the designs. Critics and artists, particularly those from the communities that perform the Tecuanes dance, claimed that the designs used on the clothing were directly copied from the authentic, traditional costumes, or trajes tradicionales de Tecuanes de Puebla, without proper attribution, credit, or compensation to the original artisans and communities. The collection was accused of exploiting sacred or culturally significant iconography for commercial gain.
The Official Response and Resolution
The backlash was immediate and intense, spreading rapidly across social media platforms. In response to the outcry, Headquarter and Carhartt WIP took swift action. The entire campaign, including product photos and promotional materials, was removed from all official social media and website channels shortly after the collection's launch. Headquarter later released an official statement, which included an apology to the artists and communities affected.
Furthermore, reports indicate that the brands reached an agreement with the original artists. One artist's official statement, shared online, confirmed that a resolution had been reached with the Headquarter store, suggesting a settlement or agreement was made to address the unauthorized use of the designs. This legal and cultural reckoning is the primary reason the collection is now a ghost in the official Carhartt WIP and Headquarter archives.
Topical Authority and The Streetwear Market
The Headquarter x Carhartt WIP incident has had a lasting impact on how the streetwear market views cultural collaborations. It has reinforced the need for brands to conduct rigorous due diligence when drawing inspiration from traditional or indigenous art forms.
The Shifting Landscape of Cultural Collaborations
This controversy emphasizes that simply citing a cultural source is no longer enough. Modern consumers, especially those interested in limited-edition and streetwear drops, demand transparency and ethical sourcing. Brands must secure explicit consent and ensure fair compensation when adapting designs that hold deep cultural or spiritual significance. This focus on ethical fashion and cultural sensitivity has become a non-negotiable part of a successful capsule collection launch. The quick removal of the collection demonstrates the power of consumer and community pressure in the digital age.
The Aftermarket and Collector Status
Due to the collection's extremely limited run and its controversial status—which led to its official disappearance—the "Diablos y Tecuanes" pieces have immediately achieved a high level of collector status on the aftermarket. Items like the Michigan Coat are now considered rare artifacts, not just because they sold out, but because they represent a pivotal, albeit problematic, moment in the history of Carhartt WIP collaborations. This scarcity and narrative have driven resale prices to significant premiums, making the vanished collection a highly sought-after commodity among dedicated workwear and streetwear enthusiasts.
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